Uncategorized

The next Glowing chapter

Glow Worm Caving AdventuresThe next chapter sees me in a settled location, much like I have been at Earthskin for the past month. This makes it a little tricky when it comes to blog writing as it all becomes information and sensory overload, also it gives me a hard time remembering all of those smaller details that ultimately play such a part in the overall impression of a place. So, towards the end of my residency at Earthskin I was trying to decide how to spend my time in the last couple of months left in New Zealand, and how to sustain myself for that time (money was getting a little tight after so long without a job). A quick dabble in job searching and I landed upon an un-missable opportunity, to work as a tour guide again, but this time in a cave! But this was also much better as it was a new business, on a family farm with tour groups no larger than 8 people (slightly different to Hobbiton experiences). After an enthusiastic few emails back and forth we arranged to have the first part of the interview, which consisted of joining a tour and seeing what the job really entailed. It was extra important to make a good impression as this was the first person the business were planning to employ outside of their family. The interview involved wading through deep river around the impressive gorge, this was going to be unlike any cave experiences I’d had before, far purer, more natural and unspoilt. p1090326 With the cold water and mud rushing in my gumboots (wellies) the idea that this could be an ‘office’ was surreal, but exciting. Heath, one of the sons of the caving family was one of two tour guides working for the company. He seemed an easy going, quiet type that took going through the cave in his stride, he had been exploring the family cave as an adventure playground since he was 5. He was also responsible for putting in the roped pathways that ran through the surrounding forest and at the top of the river for the harnessed dry tour, as well as planning the whole guiding route. I enjoyed the tour very much and soaked up the changeable surroundings and challenges, as there was water wading, climbing and crawling though tight squeezes throughout. Feeling optimistic I chatted with the family afterwards and agreed we’d have a follow up interview via phone or Skype, it was time to get on the road (in my wet underwear) and hit the Auckland traffic en-route back to my beautiful abode in Muriwai.  Just a couple of days later I had an informal chat with Michelle on the phone and was later offered the position. Thrilled and also reasonably anxious at all the changing of plans for the immediate future. Accommodation was all sorted for me, as the family members living some 5 minutes away from the farm had a cottage/out house that would be just perfect for me to stay in. img_20161002_111909 In deep isolated green rolling hills I found my new home. It is a working farm that has awesome views from my simple deck and also the sounds and smells you’d expect from a farm. There are around 6 farm dogs sharing the land beside me, beneath a beautiful tree that fills my bedroom window lookout. If I’m really lucky the dogs take it upon themselves to form a choir and let me know of their presence (!) It’s simple, but it’s all I need. I have weeded the garden and began to grow a garden of my own complete with veges, herbs and flowers, as it’s now springtime here. I like nothing more than to sit on the deck with a glass of wine of a sunny evening, enjoying the view and feeling grateful for the place I am in and the truly memorable experiences I am having.

dsc_0002

I am isolated here, I have very little signal, no Wi-Fi, but honestly I enjoy it. Many of the travelling friends I have met along the way in New Zealand have made their way back home or on to new destinations, it is indeed a new chapter. However, within a couple of days of moving in Hendrik took the trip north to come and stay for a couple of nights. It was again really lovely to be able to share another of these spectacular locations I’d managed to land myself in. I hadn’t began work yet but it made perfect sense for us to join on a tour while he was here, to show him how I would be spending my days underground. This time around we joined the other tour-guide Ash’s tour. Full of cheesy jokes and a very approachable character, it gave a different spin on the tour, and of course it was good for me to view it from another perspective. The cave is a short walk away from the office through lush green woodland towards the gorge which is around 30 metres below ground.

p1080768A walk around the gorge begins the tour, negotiating the river and rocks and taking in the sweet surroundings, before heading deep in to the cave. There are parts that the water reaches the upper thigh (you soon learn the technique of emptying water from your gumboot), crawling and climbing over undisturbed rocks, there are no pathways, lights, everything is left just as nature intended. There are a couple of optional ‘squeezes’ to challenge the more eager of the group before we arrive up close and personal with the glow worms. The river then leads us up to the main stunning display of glow worms that we all enjoy in darkness for a good amount of time. The whole tour is unhurried, and is about creating a true experience and memorable escape from reality- can you understand why I enjoy it so much yet?! Buzzing, myself and Hendrik headed back to cook up some food on the BBQ and enjoy some red wine on the deck, a nice start to make a house a home.

p1000387Settling into training in both the office and with guiding I’ve fully immersed myself in this experience and feel I am creating a great bond with the family and the interesting people from around the world I get to meet on a daily basis. I love the can-do attitude here and how hands on everything is. I enjoy buzzing around in the mule around the farm, not to mention cutting the grass on the ride on mower. I spend a lot of time in Heath’s company as he has predominantly been the one training me on the tours. We enjoy a healthy amount of piss-taking and jobs around the farm such as fixing rope, laying water pipe, it sounds dull but with him it really is quite fun. p1090421 We have adventured together through the waterfalls on the river too, it’s nice to get out and around the area with somebody as adventurous and curious as myself. We found the remaining part of his Triumph toy bike he rode as a young boy, just washed up on the side of the river.  Michelle predominantly runs the business and is good fun and easy to learn from, she has been filling my brain with all the finer details that keep the business ticking along. Working 10 days on and 4 days off provides me with enough time to get away and enjoy mini breaks, the next one saw me heading back to nearby Raglan to Solscape, where I visited at the start of my New Zealand journey. It was essentially Hendrik’s birthday treat. We booked ourselves into a mud formed Earth Dome for the night and enjoyed the ambience of the gentle light and flowing round structure. p1090145The following morning we followed each other driving the windy gravel laden roads around Pirongia and Kawhia (yes there was drifting involved) then onto a hike up Mount Pirongia (ok so the morning fry-up may have affected my walking ability somewhat) on a blazing hot day we took to laying in the grass and soaked up the amazing view that surrounded us, it was never very hard for us to create an enjoyable experience together, it was effortless.

p1090171It had become a case of planning the next adventure together and I was very happy to find myself back at his pub in Apiti on my next days off. I was introduced to a traditional South-African braai and had a great time chatting and drinking with his chef/friend Bruce too. It’s fair to say I didn’t need to eat or drink for around 2 days after this visit.

glowing-adventures2So now, I find myself waiting on the outcome of a visa extension application. The future is very up in the air for me at the moment and if I am fortunate enough to be offered the extra time here I know that I have an amazing job to return to and people I want to spend much more time with. Fingers crossed…

Soundtrack: The Imagined Village – ‘Ouses, ‘Ouses, ‘Ouses, Dreadzone – Cave of Angels, Radiohead – Identikit

 

 

Advertisements
Uncategorized

Earthskin Muriwai

Creativity is about living life as a journey into seeing and communicating the extra-ordinariness of the simplest, most every day acts. It makes life infinitely interesting and fulfilling.

p1090007

And so I arrived. The only confirmed plan I had for my New Zealand trip this time last year was the art residency I was selected for at Earthskin Muriwai.

This was going to take some time to sink in, after a very steep drop down the driveway I began to see the yurt and 3-storey house that was to be my base for the next month. I’d lusted over living in a yurt for many years, sparked by an amazing experience whilst art-working on the band The Levellers first ever music festival when I was 17. In the drizzly rain I was greeted by local artist and musician Judy who showed me around the beautiful Grand Designs-esque house, open plan, full of windows and curiosities and situated outside were my very own 2 chickens to take care of (I was quite pleased to have chickens around again!). img_20160908_145952There was a lovingly created vegetable garden using resourced flora from the surrounding Nikau palm trees and forest. On the lower level housed the studio fit for painting and wood chopping and gardening tool area complete with enough webs to house approximately 3000 spiders. The trees around the back of the house took you on a path through Wiggley woods through pine, Nikau and wonderfully enigmatic Pohutukawa trees, also known as Christmas trees from their seasonal red flowers. The walk leads you down to wind-swept Muriwai Beach famous for its iron rich black sand and rugged good surf.

p1080914This was to be so much more than an art residency, it was a month for quiet reflection and restoration, as most of the time was spent on my own. Earthskin isn’t over-looked, it is a portal that lies deep in a forest channelling some pretty strong energy. Two days in and I received a call from a neighbour asking if I’d like to meet him and his family over tea and scones. After a couple of days to nest and form a routine and familiarity with the surroundings I welcomed this offer with open arms and was greeted by Pipi, Robin’s daughter and family dog Danny. Robin had taken it upon himself to form a link from the artist in residence to the local community of Muriwai. A wonderfully friendly and interesting older chap who has lived and still lives a life full of adventure. He was OIC of the weather station on Campbell Island 1966/67 as well as leader at Scott Base, Antarctica 1968/69. He has run many marathons and triathlons and managed Turoa Skifields on Mount Ruapehu for 8 years, not forgetting he has 7 children ranging from 9-53! His energy and attitude was inspiring.

I began somewhat of a routine each morning of tending to and collecting eggs from the chickens- providing a tasty breakfast, a session of yoga on the sunshine deck then down to the studio to start some paintings. I’d often wander off to break from the concentration, luckily the surrounding landscape was so inspiring I had a good balance.

dsc_0929Over the first weekend I had an impromptu visit from lovely Apiti chum Hendrik. The anticipation of touching base with a good friend and being able to show him around my lovely abode was such a pleasure. I found myself fantasising about the house being mine as most elements were just as I would like for my own place one day. Hendrik rocked up in his super-cool Ute and didn’t take long to feel comfortable and inspired by the lush surroundings. We walked down to the beach, back through the forest, cooked a heart-warming meal and listened to great music over red wine. The evening wasn’t complete without a log fire burning away in the yurt with incense and candles, a perfect moment. img_20160907_125613

Short and sweet, I was on my own again, and ready to get tucked into some work, I found the next few days hard, feeling a pressure to produce outstanding work because I’d finally been given the idyllic place and time for it, and felt judgemental about everything I had created. I felt very distracted and spent far more time gardening and wandering around to try and gain some clarity. An out-of-the-blue phone call from owner of the property Nancy put me back in to shape- an inspiring and deep conversation discussing the changing shift in energy when you are in such a place and how often after a week you begin to understand where you are, and then the work starts to come easily, a natural process. A creative person allows themselves to be their true self, without worrying about being judged. Creativity becomes ingrained in your very essence as an individual and your creation is a projection of you and your deepest thoughts, translated into a beautiful work that adds to the value of not only your life, but also that of others.

dsc_1119The following weekend I was joined by Southampton chum Luke, which I knew would make for an enjoyable and restful few days. I felt particularly happy that he decided to visit as he needed a break from his work and location, and boy, did it do him good! It was as though people who visited were somehow cleansed and rejuvenated- powerful stuff! We jammed on guitar, had a dance and fair few drinks over a game of truth or dare, simple wholesome pleasures. When you know that you needn’t rely on external factors for mental stimulation, it is a major personal triumph. When you know that you are living up to your true potential, you are truly happy.

14322312_10154301320376418_1542190003018049287_n

Every once in a while I’d meet with Robin and his family for a meal (they were so hospitable) and other times I’d just hang out with the kids and go on a bit of an adventure. Pipi, Bene and Thaddie showed me this sites of Muriwai Beach, including the huge gannet colony and incredibly powerful rock formations, blow holes and surrounding caves. This wasn’t a place to mess with.

p1080928I did have a reasonable structure to the residency in that the following Sunday I had an open invitation for locals to come and visit me at the house for a discussion and an informal presentation of my work (with cake). I gave a talk on my background, inspirations and work produced in Muriwai as well as throughout my (almost) year in NZ. It turned into an inspiring afternoon of likeminded creatives and lovely souls having a good yarn- a nice boost as sharing is such an important element in the creative process, something I miss about my old studio at The Sorting Office. img_20160925_112040

The locals kids and I wanted to go on one last adventure before I left and their idea was a hike through Goldie’s Bush. A 9km hike through Kauri forest, taking in the impressive Mokoroa Falls, it was quite the challenge at this time of year! The water was rough and deep on the 20+ river crossings we needed to make, but we managed it as a team, and Pipi and Bene couldn’t have been better company. At the local Muriwai Surf Club Robin and Pipi were lifeguards (Pipi at 14yrs still in training but nearly fully qualified!). Robin had a monthly supper club with lifeguards past and present and I was kindly invited along to meet them all. Some true characters, a wholesome meal and a stunning sunset rounded off the day perfectly.

p1090111

On my final day at Earthskin I was greeted by new resident artist Sam Heydt from New York. A big ball of energy (despite her tiredness from travelling) we spent a fun evening together chatting over a drink until I tucked myself into the yurt for my final night. We were both involved in a community event happening in Muriwai the following morning, called the Fun Palace. Myself alongside 30+ other artists/performers/creatives were offering free workshops with anybody who wanted to join in. It’s a great initiative that was started in the UK and is an ongoing campaign supporting culture at the heart of every community. Danielle the organiser and all-round great sort did a wonderful job-it was super busy and buzzing.

Leaving Muriwai on a high, in the quiet reflection of the drive onward I felt changed by this place. Plans outside of the residency were starting to fall into place for me, an exciting new door had opened…I was too curious not to venture on in…

p1080933

Soundtrack: Type O Negative – Cinnamon Girl, Led Zeppelin – Going to California, Pink Floyd – The Dark Side of the Moon

 

Uncategorized

There be gold in them there hills ◮…the Wild West & re-visiting friends

DSC_0780It made sense to travel back up the island through the rugged west coast. Renowned for its damp and lush green rainforest like landscapes it didn’t disappoint. I crossed the Haast pass in murky wet weather, stepping out to climb over some giant rocks and take in the energy of my new surroundings. Heading north along the coast line, I left the snow behind and began to see waterfalls and rockslides.

I took a nights rest in Hokitika, famous for its abundance of sacred greenstone and gold mines. I finally made the commitment of buying a beautifully carved jade fishhook, as I didn’t want the regret of not owning a piece of this unique green jewellery. The following beautiful sunny morning I craved a walk after so much driving, I found myself on a mysterious track through old gold mining tunnels, head lamp at the ready, I was far too curious to not enter. I came out in one piece :). Heading further north that same day (time was getting tight) I made what was to be one of my finalP1080468 stops on the south island. Punakaiki- a small community between Westport and Greymouth, home to amazing rock formations which were formed 30 million years ago from minute fragments of dead marine creatures and plants landed on the seabed about 2 km below the surface. Immense water pressure caused the fragments to solidify in hard and soft layers. Gradually seismic action lifted the limestone above the seabed. Mildly acidic rain, wind and seawater sculpted the bizarre shapes. Fierce water pressure pushes through the rocks and blow holes causing a chimney like effect, a real wow moment.P1080496Further on up the road there was a ‘cavern’, just like the ‘chasm’ in the previous blog, this word is far too interesting for me to not visit. Curiousity sparked, head torch at the ready (always) I made my way in. It was a dry and peaceful cave, a few areas to climb and crawl into, and a wonderful inky black haze surrounded me. I sat for a while and enjoyed the atmosphere. P1080514The hostel I’d booked into couldn’t check me in for a while, sadly for me it was right next to a pub overlooking the sea as the sun was setting. A cold pint of Waikato beer in hand, I reflected on the day, realising my southern trip was nearing an end, but what an excellent high I was on! I made my way back to Nelson, to catch up with Renee for a couple of goodbye drinks. One of the most rewarding things about travelling alongside the incredible sites you see are the amazing people you meet along the way. I feel so humbled to have friends I can visit all over New Zealand and create memories with. The ferry was very choppy back up to the north island, so much so it was turning into a Monty Python sketch with everybody making heaving noises due to sea sickness (nice image eh?). Arriving in Wellington that evening it felt a great comfort to see Steve again. He was putting me up/putting up with me in Mirimar for the week. He had a good friend Jason from South Africa staying too as they were both working on a big film together -I’m not going to tell you which one of course 😉 we had a fun week of chatting, drinking and playing computer games, when they weren’t working their arses off at Weta of course. Jason is a cool dude with a fro, very easy going, super talented and has recently worked on films such as Mad Max.

DSC_0677It was the time of year my great friend Dan from back home hosts his annual Gig In The Garden. It is a gathering of family, friends, great music, tasty grub, and being the amazing friend he is, he set up a live stream so I could enjoy the action as it happened, with interludes of people coming up to the webcam to talk to me, it really was the next best thing to being there. Another random meet up happened that week in Mirimar, with Dana, a drama teacher from the school I used to work at. He was over visiting his son Alex, who now lives in Auckland. Dana happened to be at the Weta Workshop with Alex- so being up the road I decided to tag along! It was fun to see Dana and he very much enjoyed meeting Steven and finding out about his crazy Weta lifestyle. On the final evening myself and Steven took a walk through a ambient pinky violet sunset to the Mirimar ‘cave’, it’s a bit of a secret, and home to a self-made bed structure and eerily a pair of sandals. Walking back through the sand he told me of his adventures back in South Africa with his daughter, it was poignant and inspiring, I’m really happy to know him.

P1080573I had received an email from a John Brebner through the WWOOFING site asking if I would like to help out and experience a residency at his gorgeous studio in Feilding (roughly a couple of hours north of Wellington). I tried to make the timing work so that I could visit John on my slow trip up north for my Earthskin Muriwai art residency starting in September (much more info on that in a later blog) I arrived at Homeprint, welcomed by a lovely hug and introduction to John and Allison’s quirky old home, complete with vintage printing presses, letterpress fonts, art gallery walls, historic library- an absolute art lovers dream. John and Allison have a lifetimes experience of printing and teaching art and it was a pleasure to help them out for the week. A particular highlight was cataloguing famous NZ artist Michael Smither’s fantastic screen prints- oh how I’d like to have taken a few of these home with me. I slept in the printing cottage, meaning that after lighting myself a comforting fire for the evening, I would crack on and print until the wee hours, mainly drypoint, I realised how much I’d missed the medium since my university days. IMG_20160818_185051I was enjoying the daily routine of helping John with the practical side of his business then continuing my artwork later in the day. I did however enjoy a visit from Hobbiton (it’s that word again) friend Hendrik, who had recently taken over a tavern in nearby Apiti. We’d not really formed much of a friendship at Hobbiton, but curiosity and regular contact afterwards happily inspired us to meet again. Another South African (!) with a gentle, charismatic presence, I showed him around the studio, the pieces I was working on, and had a coffee before planning to meet at his pub a few days later.

Moving on up to Apiti up to Hendrik’s gaff, the scenery begins to change, the rolling green hills pass me by and I can see the snowy peak of Ruapehu in the distance. To be honest I was a bit anxious about spending the day with somebody I barely knew, I can get a little shy, but it all adds to the excitement. I needn’t have worried -we had surplus natural highs in store. To settle in we took a walk through a nearby forest, I never tire of its wonderful charm. I love the glinting sunlight and the mysterious gloom, we shared a smoke and talked about family. Later in the day we drove out to a somewhat secret glow worm cave, which in the mellow darkness of the early evening was incredible. IMG_20160829_205321We walked through mazes of shallow water guided further in by the lights. We took a seat on a dry rock and could see both the stars of the night sky and the glow worms surrounding us. We made our way back to the tavern and continued to talk, drink and smoke for hours and hours. It was sad to part the next morning, driving up towards Rotorua with a car full of tunes recommended by Hendrik, and a day of great memories, I was in a happy place. The next few days were about revisiting friends on my way back up to Auckland. I found a great hostel in Rotorua with a collection of fun travellers, amazingly all into great music, think Pink Floyd, Led Zep, Doors, so in the midst of rather uninspiring weather we hung out, drank and played games for a few days, while I took time out to prepare and research for the residency. Matamata was next, where I was really pleased to catch up with Luke from Southampton who has been there working since I left in May. We had a pint and lunch in Megan’s parents pub in Te Poi (Megan ex. Hobbiton) and wandered up the Kaimai range for a Kauri tree walk. It was more of a very deep river walk! we had fun negotiating these, getting wet underwear and laughing lots. 14102292_10154070565749737_1969560709872382206_nA lovely day was rounded off by a drink with Megan and Stephanie in the Redoubt (where else) and then back to the holiday park with Luke to sit in the hot pools in darkness staring and the stars listening to great tunes. A beach day with Linda at Mount Maungani was next on the ‘great reunion tour’, on the most summery of days we had a great chat and spent time on the beach. Just a few more days until I needed to be up at Muriwai Beach, so on the recommendation from Linda I planned a few sunny chilled days on the Coromandel, and chose a location I hadn’t yet visited in Tairua. Well it was so beautiful that I spent 3 nights there, trekking, paddling and enjoying the view.DSC_0848

There were a couple of interesting guys at the hostel one of which gave me a list of ‘classical music I have to listen to’ (he also had the best beard ever) and the other (we didn’t do the name exchange) was studying geology in the area and suggested I visit Hamilton Gardens on my way back up. Sat in the sunniest café garden in Hamilton I awaited a lunch date with Matt (Christchurch, Kent) and this time around he was much healthier! I had a pretty flowery salad and we reminisced on funny festival experiences together. He really is a great friend, we have had many good memories. After this reasonably quick lunch I was spending my last night before the residency in the smallest hostel ever (thank god it was the last I thought) and escaped in the evening to share a lush dinner and drink with Hobbiton chum Jessica.  _20160831_194456I was soon realising that this may well be the last time I see these great friends which is bittersweet, but I’m never one to waste time on regrets, you just have to go for it 🙂

Soundtrack: Jenny Lee – Boom Boom, Lamb – Lusty, REM – Nightswimming, Led Zeppelin – Going To California, Leftfield – Leftism

Uncategorized

Into The Great Snowy South ❆

DSC_0519As previously mentioned in the last blog, I finally made it back to Auckland, despite the cancelled flight and the best part of 2 days spent in the airport terminal. It was all ok really, I wound up staying in much smarter accommodation than I had booked , complete with room service (4 toasties at 2am no less) I was in no rush to get back to Christchurch either, but I was getting pangs of helplessness and just wanted to get back into my trusty car and drive off.

The next port of call on this southern trip was leading me towards Lake Tekapo, this worked out well as Hobbiton friends were working on Mount Dobson ski field and living nearby in Fairlie – their adopted second home. Hannah and Luke had been in New Zealand for getting on for 2 years now, and this is the place they spent their last winter – they loved the community atmosphere there. It was great to arrive at their cute little home they were sharing with 3 cool flatmates. It wasn’t long before we greeted each other with a hug and a cheer and began to fill in on our time after Hobbiton.

Hannah was a fellow tour guide and Luke worked in the Green Dragon Inn. They began working at Hobbiton around the same time and also left Hobbiton shortly after myself. They are a great fun-loving couple from ‘up-north’ in the UK (everything is ‘up-north’ to people from Southampton) complete with good strong accents we got on immediately and I’m sure we will share some wine and beers when we all get back home (probably in The Hobbit pub of course).P1080010

As we began to catch up over some lush NZ navy rum it was apparent they had been through a fair bit, with lingering illness issues and a recent car crash giving them prolonged insurance grief, loss of their car, but thankfully they were fine. We were hoping to ski the following day, due to a fresh bout of snow arriving, although sadly the road up to the mountain was closed, due to ever-changing weather conditions, it just wasn’t meant to be! We took a trip out to Mount John instead taking in some of those amazing snowy mountains I had so far only had mere glimpses of. We stopped at a discreet art gallery shack, which wound up to house some incredible pieces by a local artist that Hannah and Luke knew, although they did not know the talent he was hiding! (often the case for creatives). After a day of eating, drinking, chilling and being merry I drove off into the night to the Geraldine Observatory. Now I have a deep lack of knowledge when it comes to astronomy, but what I do have is a deep fascination and curiosity. I was greeted by fellow brit Peter who offered the chance to star gaze from his garden’s observatory (that’s such a lovely word too) Peter has a lifetime experience of astronomy and still works closely with NASA in search of supernovas. He houses 2 observatories, one solely robotic set up with a Celestron C14 specifically for supernova hunting. The two observatories are 2 of 7 that he has built over the years. I was drawn to stargaze here as it is one of the ‘dark sky’ areas of the world, also because Peter offers the tours out of pure passion and loves to share his experience and findings, and his photographs? they’re mind-blowing. With the help of Luke and Hannah I began to have a plan for the next couple of weeks, including the best places to visit and stay. That is the beauty with meeting new people all the time is that you can be selective as to where to visit due to their experiences and of course, what you personally feel like doing at the time. I left Fairlie early (see what I did there?) back towards Tekapo as this is a usual scenic route, picking up some good photos of the well photographed Church of the Good Shepherd. DSC_0492I was heading towards Mount Cook, wow what a landscape. All of this beautiful fresh snow had really painted a picture, I was staying at a wooden clad youth hostel, one of only a handful of accommodation in the area. I began a hike the following day along the Hooker Valley Track. It was beautiful sunlight that day, becoming very cool indeed when traversing swing bridges closer and closer to the glaciers. This day will forever be in my memory, it was so unlike anything I’d experienced before, lacking in colour, the landscape was a stunning charcoal sketch I’d dreamt of experiencing.

P1080143Senses fulfilled, it was on to Wanaka for the night. I made a pit stop at the touristy Puzzling World exhibition. It was rather kid-tastic as expected, but provided some decent holograms and a particularly strange wonky room experience. I was happy I visited, I’ll try anything once, but I was also happy to be leaving the kids in there :). Wanaka was very ski orientated, as it would be this time of year, I found myself wandering aimlessly but did crave a bit of company I must admit, especially in a sociable town environment. P1080230Finding the balance of enough of a plan to look forward to and aim for, and not scheduling things down to a tee is tricky. I work well knowing that I have somewhere to go the next day, but at the same time I end up making it up as I go along anyway. This seems to work most of the time, I have had moments of anxiety, particularly on my drive down to Queenstown. Signs were up reminding me to carry snow chains (something I had no experience with and certainly didn’t own) I was approaching the famously picturesque Crown Range Road and I started to doubt my rather powerless automatic (sorry car). I turned back and headed down a not-so pretty road to Queenstown.

Arrowtown is a historic gold mining town, not far from Queenstown, and was worth a stop. A really dreamy feel to this place, up-market shops and restaurants, everything had style. I had a cuppa, walked around the nearby historic Chinese settlement which was pretty interesting and got back on the road down to Queenstown.P1080257I arrived in the evening and after a beer and awkward moment with an over-enthusiastic Swiss guy at the pub, I started to do the rounds on the ski shops and garages for advice (they opened late). The advice was rather conflicting! a big load of snow was due the next day, so after a demo or two I decided to rent some chains just in case. I found time to also sample the famous Fergburger, the place was heaving, apparently this is pretty common, oh my, what a mighty fine burger it was! The kind of food you crave from that day onward even when you’re not hungry! I enjoyed the buzz of Queenstown, not so much the sweaty ‘young person’ hostel I stayed in, but hey you have to take the rough with the smooth.

The next day held yet another scenic drive (you can’t really go wrong on the south it seemed) up towards Glenorchy. This is a drive I had researched last year, sadly for me it was the most overcast and rainy day yet! I made the drive anyway due to time constraints and hoped for better weather on the way back. On the advice from Hannah and Luke I stopped at the Glenorchy General Store and picked up a rather delicious arty mug souvenir before continuing onto Kinloch Lodge- a serenely beautiful stay for a night in the middle of nowhere it seemed. The best thing about the stay, apart from the great company from room mate Lucas, was that snow started to fall overnight, meaning I woke up like a giddy child to a winter wonderland.P1080311Due south some more I made my way to Te Anau, which is basically the place you start in and return to after a trip to Milford Sound. Milford Sound is a fiord in the south west of the island and a World Heritage Site. It is one of New Zealand’s must-sees and people travel from worldwide to experience a cruise around the spectacular rock forms, countless waterfalls, varied sea life and awesome atmosphere. I had a boat cruise booked for the next day and in the meantime I was in a town with a pretty lake and about 3 shops, oh but it did boast a cave the other side of the lake. Now it’s preferable that I locate a cave, with nobody else around so I can explore and soak it up in my own time, but the Aurora cave network did lure me in with an interesting story, complete with evening boat ride, I was sold. After a few worried minutes being on a boat with so many people, I escaped to top deck where it was cold, windy, empty and the sky was full of stars. We were split of into groups of around 8, where we witnessed incredibly powerful cave waterfalls (Te Anau literally means cave of rushing water) alongside a silent drift through to the glow worm filled grotto. Feeling warm and fuzzy back at the nice hostel, I peacefully drifted off into sleep ready to wake up early and hope the Te Anau road was open to Milford Sound. The road hadn’t been open for 9 days, but much to my delight it re-opened on the following morning. The 2.5hr road trip to Milford is known for being just as picturesque and sometimes more remarkable than the boat ride itself. I wasn’t disappointed in the slightest. Our driver Frank took us through a damp lush green landscape until we hit the snow, approaching the Homer Tunnel, you can’t stop due to avalanche risk, in fact it’s one of the most dangerous roads in the world.

P1080338

Absolutely stunning.

It was a Mount Cook moment all over again, I could actually begin to see avalanches forming as we wound our way down what seemed like an impossibly high road. Again, everything was like a beautiful drawing, my eyes couldn’t comprehend where the mountains ended and the sky began. The boat trip was serene, once again after people left the top deck that is. A little overcast, but we saw dolphins and seals swimming around us as soon as we departed, it was 2 hours of peaceful drifting taking in the awesome scale. Top deck got me pretty cold and I looked forward to the ride back to be honest, to see all the amazing sights from a different perspective. Frank made many stops to and from Milford, my absolute stand out was at a place called The Chasm (do you love it already?) Everything on this adventure was messing with my perception and the camera can’t do the scale any justice! Sometimes though, you get those winning shots that are worth the risk, like this mystical waterfall cascade that yes, I got drenched taking, but it captured it, that feeling.

P1080404

P1080444

Time for a Western adventure…(not John Wayne style)

Soundtrack: Mark Pritchard – Sad Alron, Lamb – Lusty

art, art studio, carly mann, Uncategorized

Redwood ➸ Harwood ↞The Lost Woods

P1070808Leaving behind friends and a memorable experience at Willow Creek Farm I was greatly anticipating getting stuck into an art project. A lovely roast lamb cooked by farm co-worker/new friend Annie made for a great evening’s grub and company before heading to Motueka to meet Barbara. Myself and Barbara had exchanged many emails regarding an exhibition she had ideas for one gallery or maybe more…

DSC_0272Barbara was a kind soul, deeply interested in philosophy and art- particularly important shifts in art movements pre 20th century. I arrived after a scenic bridge drive over to the other side of Motueka where I was welcomed into Redwood Cottage. This was to be my home for the next week, and how perfect this turned out to be. I felt instantly comfortable and in a great mind-set to discuss the artworks Barbara wanted me to create. We had interesting discussions about our ideas and where to begin, I was very much in a position of planning, curating, and offering my advice and experience. Barbara had many intriguing books particularly focussed around Paleolithic and Neolithic art- right up my street. The Lascaux cave paintings situated in France seemed like a fitting starting point given the chronological date and my deep interest in caves and sacred stone structures. The very next day I began work armed with all the materials I could possibly need, listening to The Pentangle, Neil Young and Leonard Cohen to set the tone.

Work flowed organically. I played with texture, different scales, a limited colour palette, as well as metallics to produce a coherent set that I believe evoke the feel of the caves and invite the viewer to experience a unique insight. I was on a creative buzz all week, enjoying down time chatting to friendly Japanese and German wwoofers staying in Barbara’s house, and friends back home over a gin or 3 in the cottage that felt so like home.

IMG_20160715_143222.jpg         IMG_20160715_143956

Renee was staying in nearby Nelson and joined me for my last night, drinking gin (a theme?) and playing board games- we had previously enjoyed the Light Nelson event, which was a free event creatively lighting up the city. It was pretty impressive  (what I can remember of it!) But I wanted one last trek up Abel Tasman way, and managed to twist Renee’s arm into joining me. This place was called Harwoods Hole, at 176 metres deep it is the known as the ‘biggest vertical shaft’ in New Zealand (tee hee) The walk to it was also used for filming scenes of ‘Chetwood Forest’ in Lord of the Rings.

P1070820We walked, Renee with her melodica in hand (we found it at the cottage) and decided to play Zelda tunes as we walked around (we’re too cool) when approaching the semi circle of immensely high rock formations we could feel this was a special place, egging each other on to get nearer the edge and peer down, I’ve never seen anything quite like it. Awesome, enigmatic, and bloody scary all at the same time. A look out point on the way down proved to be a justified detour, that is until I fell onto very sharp angular rocks, giving myself a good few good cuts and bruises. It’s moments like this that it’s important to have a mate around- I was glad to have Ren there as I concerned my knee had given up the ghost.

P1070857Time to depart through the famously scenic Queen Charlotte Track, gradually heading south towards Kaikoura, situated on the east coast. Kaikoura is predominantly known for its whale and seal watching and was a beautiful first glimpse of those famous snow capped mountains. I stopped off at the Ohau Stream Walk to watch baby seals swimming playfully, it’s also where I happened to bump into Danny- the super cool bus driver from Hobbiton , well met with a hug and quick catchup, this lifted my spirits even more. P1070904After a night in Kaikoura it was time to swing on down to Christchurch. Christchurch was a place I certainly wanted to at least pass through whilst in New Zealand. It is another large city, but this one experienced a devastating earthquake, a 6.3 on the richter scale in fact, killing many and destroying the surroundings and leaving the city unrecognisable. When I arrived it was a grey day and I was moved by the mess of it all. People I’d met on my journey so far had spoken about the optimisim and creative regeneration emerging through shipping containers, and impressive ‘cardboard cathedral’ and the like- sadly, it certainly had a long way to go in my opinion. As a diversion from isolating feelings of walking around a now soul-less city, it was to be a sociable few days ahead.

P1070971

I sat myself in a nearby Mexican restaurant sipping a tasty margarita, anticipating the arrival of Californian Steve. Steve purchased one of my first ever glass works I created, inspired by the band Dead Can Dance. We had been in contact since then, and the dates worked so that we could meet up on his last night in New Zealand. 13710045_10153970064979737_3232642962097901750_nWe greeted with a hug and it felt instantly comfortable with flowing conversation including his incredible life stories managing bands, running radio stations, hanging out with famous faces, his INCREDIBLE music collection oh, and he’s an award-winning racquetball extraordinaire. We spoke for hours over a tasty Asian meal, I left feeling glad we had the chance to meet.

The next day was time to meet a friend from back home, Matt, who has just recently secured permanent residency in New Zealand. We have been friends for many years, usually frequenting at the Beautiful Days festival or numerous Levellers gigs. Although he wasn’t feeling 100% when we met (more like 40% in fact) he was sweet conversation and it felt like all was well. 13690875_10153974173174737_7142613928823160983_n

The following day was The Cure day! I flew myself (I’ve grown wings) up to Auckland to meet free-spirited Linda (Hobbiton bus driver) as we had previously bonded over a love of great music and stayed in regular contact since my departure. To say I was excited to see The Cure would be an understatement. I have loved them and been inspired by Robert Smith since I was about 12. The fun, quirky, gothy, playful goodness of the band is so unique, and 40 years later they haven’t ‘sold out’, they are still attracting fans of all ages, and quite frankly write bloody good songs and perform them exceptionally well. Altogether an emotionally exilerating 3.5hr gig that confirmed my love for the band- the first time I’d seen them myself and my partner at the time cried afterwards- it was overwhelming 🙂 Linda and I sunk a few, rocked out with fellow fans, and just had a bloody good time.

IMG_20160722_124818

A hungover Carly, a cancelled flight, and 2 days of waiting at the airport failed to take off the shine…

Soundtrack: The Cure – How Beautiful You Are, The Doors – The Crystal Ship

Uncategorized

The Emerald Lake: Coffins, Chickens & Sowing the Seeds of Love

‘But where our hearts truly lie is in peace and quiet, and good tilled earth. For all Hobbits share a love of things that grow’ The Lord of The Rings – JRR Tolkien

IMG_20160616_072208I landed myself another WWOOFING location overlooking the Maitai River, just out of the city of Nelson. So far I had been choosing hosts based on common interests, type of jobs required, and also relatively small families or lone people. When I arrived, Kristine and her friend greeted me after returning from a dog walk, we enjoyed a tasty cup of coffee and started to get to know each other. I must mention at this point that I hadn’t yet noticed the coffins on my arrival. We were sitting around a relatively small space filled with music and books and it didn’t take long for Kristine to begin to tell me about her life and the business that she runs. Her business specialises in ‘family led’ funerals, which to my understanding is, trying to educate people to bridge the gap between someone dying, and being ‘handed over’ to a company to deal with all of the aftercare of the body behind closed doors. Instead this aftercare and burial is dealt with naturally by the family. It is unusual that this very natural event suddenly takes on an unnatural and clinical process, something has certainly been lost along the way. It all seems to skirt over the very vital element of the grieving process. It is a very western idea that we hand over a body to somebody else to ‘deal with’. We just have to look to countries such as India, in Hindu religion where the bodies are ceremonially burned and sent down the river by the close families. Festivals like the Day of the Dead overthrow all of this and celebrate the lives of those no longer with us. So the business is essentially Kristine planning and educating people into learning the preservation burial ‘process’ for themselves.

IMG_20160606_170737.jpg

Now this isn’t mentioned on the WWOOFING page (!) as I guess some people could be quite uncomfortable with the idea of it all, however, I was very interested. I watched Six Feet Under obsessively during my teens (HBO series, well worth a watch) which is a series based around a family running a funeral home and the dark, complex and often funny situations that this put the family in. In a influential time of my life it did spark my interest in the industry, it is so vital, and to be able to provide a special service run on love not money sounded ideal. Now realistically a few years later I have since shaken this off, I have been fortunate/unfortunate so far to not have many dealings with the death of a loved one, I say unfortunate as I am unsure the impact this inexperience will have with my grieving when it does inevitably happen.

IMG_20160606_171251.jpgSo far as the ‘death stuff’ we chatted about it most nights over dinner, and Kristine’s own struggles in her life, but what really struck me about a week with Kristine was her sheer determination and strength (both physically and mentally), she has a wonderful ‘can do’ attitude. The house was split in 2 in order to rent so I had the top apartment to stay in which was flooded with light and more than comfortable next to a lovely log fire. It also enabled me to have space and light to paint, I made some small oil sketches which were successful and mark the start of an interesting body of work.

13438982_1033549490056648_458673172915325244_n        13528656_1033548180056779_2161533527586744805_n

The WWOOFING work mainly involved gardening- wood chopping, nut cracking (satisfying), mosaic cleaning and sorting. The most rewarding thing we achieved was moving an iron bath down the garden to a gazebo area in order to bathe outside over-looking the river! (great idea) This was one of those jobs when we doubted our strength but sure enough it worked… and we were bloody great!

I spent a few days there, all the while getting offered an interview at WOW to realise I just wouldn’t be in the country long enough to suit their needs, big bummer. It was and Irish Music Festival in Nelson, myself and Kristine went to the local pub to grab a tasty craft beer or two and enjoyed the music and said our farewells.

IMG_20160608_180652.jpg

Next stop- chickens, around 4000 in fact. The next WWOOFING host was a free range egg farm near Motueka, on the way to the Abel Tasman and yep, it was one of those locations that the sat nav takes you into a ford rather than your proper destination. At sunset I found the farm ok much to my relief. Willow Creek farm is a free range egg business that’s run by an incredibly welcoming and lovely family originating from South Africa. I have met more South Africans in the past 2 months in NZ than I have in my life and not wanting to stereotype but, I have got on with each of them very well and had good times. I was greeted by a very friendly Sharon and the two farm dogs Ice and Teddy. Now I only proposed to stay a week, but typing this I am still here a month later! This gives credit to how comfortable I have felt and how much I have enjoyed the work. P1070622.JPG The farm is roughly a 40 minute drive from Nelson but it hasn’t been an issue keeping occupied whilst I have been here. The daily routine would ordinarily consist of a 6am (!) feed of the chickens in 3 sheds, and the same again at around 4.30pm to begin the end of day feed/cleaning and processing routine. Some days I would help with egg collection, each egg in the nesting box is collected by myself, cleaned and stacked into trays, and at most we’d roughly get around 48 trays from a shed, depending on the age of the chickens. So it was fast paced work but therapeutic and I’m pretty sure the chickens enjoyed me talking to them about The Wizard of Oz. It was always a bit of a family joke that I resembled Dorothy from the creepy but great Oz sequel Return to Oz. Here at the farm is was nice to finally spend time with my own ‘Bellinas’ and gaze upon the ‘emerald lake’ (algae pond) in the cold frost of the morning. Here at the farm I have seen night skies like never before, so filled with stars it was a privilege to view each morning and night. We were also treated to some amazing sunrises and sunsets so working around the clock became a great way of seeing different things in a different light.

IMG_20160706_143042.jpgI had the good fortune of having lovely co-workers at the farm, I’d since been offered paid work which was a great turn of events. Annie and Cynthia in particular were good fun and made dealings with chicken poo good fun! I can honestly say I didn’t feel a ‘chore like’ moment on the farm, it felt so natural to me and offered great escapism. Due to this escapism it also provided a good state of mind for painting, I was able to get stuck into my Outdoor Room concept and produce some mixed media pieces inspired by Wellington and Kaitoke Park. OK, so I wasn’t at the farm all of the time, I had a day off each week to go and explore, and like much of Nelson, there are a great deal of artists practising nearby so I had myself a few art roadtrips. I was also very happy that my Hobbiton chum Renee had made her way back down south. We met up in a groovey Vegetarian restaurant named East Street, where we enjoyed chatting, eating, and drinking. DSC_0103.JPGI didn’t know Renee too well really, but I always wanted to hang out as I thought we may have loads in common, ever since I noticed her Zelda coin purse back in Matamata. It is going to be hard for us to fall out if you are a true Zelda fan, it had so much influence on my childhood, my desire to adventure, the creative storytelling and of course the consistently lush artwork the game creators designed. We also shared another day together hiking and exploring caves along the Maitai River (caves are becoming quite a theme). This nearly didn’t happen due to miscommunication and a high speed chase behind Ren to grab her attention as she drove off! Ha! It was fun, wet and muddy. We grabbed a well-deserved pint and sat down to hear Cynthia from the farm sing in a choir, alongside her sister Angela, in Nelson Cathedral.

P1070749.JPGGetting dirty on a daily basis, riding the quad, the ute (NZ word for pick-up) and hanging with the other animals was a great experience of a different way of living, hard work, but natural and rewarding.

Sharon cooked up hearty meals each day and was very motherly, this was the most comfortable I had felt since I left home, who doesn’t enjoy being spoilt from time to time? In the last week I worked on helping to get the vegetable bed up and running, the majority being weeding, but sowing the seeds of love too. I feel a real connection when I am gardening and feel really peaceful, I looked forward to getting outside each morning, greeting the sheep and tilling the earth. It is one of those interests I am happy to have gained from my grandparents and parents alike, I am making plans for my own garden of delights.

IMG_20160701_122748.jpg

So I am moving on now, making my way to the city of extreme earthquakes and sending myself healing vibes on my back that has since gone ‘twang’….

Soundtrack: Tears For Fears – Sowing the Seeds of Love, The Doors – Alabama Song

Uncategorized

The South > Nelson & Abel Tasman Lucid Imaginings

P1070590.JPGI made it to the South Island! It’s roughly a 3.5 hour journey across the Cook Strait from Wellington. There was a big storm the night before sailing, which made me doubt whether the ferry would be going anywhere at all, certainly if it was the ferry from Southampton to Isle of Wight it wouldn’t have sailed in that weather. With a great deal of thoughts running through my head about having no notable plan, leaving friends behind and lack of income, I was welcoming the tranquil and really rather beautiful trip to the south to collect my thoughts.  FB_IMG_1465355333487I arrived in darkness with a 40 minute drive to the hostel I had booked for two nights (by the way, I have stayed in over 40 different beds since I left the UK). After a snakey pitch black climb to the hostel I was greeted with ‘you must be Carly, you’re our only visitor tonight!’ ha, excellent I thought. It took roughly 30 minutes before I made my way to the lounge, put on the Thelma & Louise DVD, and tucked into enough vodka and tonic to make myself very happy/sleepy.

DSC_0095_2When the sun came up the following morning I started to realise the beautiful area I was staying in, there was nobody around and stunning walks on the doorstep. There was an immediate sense of serenity when hitting the south, confirming that I was headed in the right direction. The two days gave me chance to organise another WWOOFING host, as I was keen to meet some locals and be proactive while the job search continued. The sheer amount of places I had in mind to see on the South meant my fuel, food and accommodation bills would soon mount up. The only confirmed plan I had so far  was The Cure gig in Auckland on the 21st July, in which I would be flying from Christchurch..

Well as it turns out I wasn’t quite in the right headspace for the next WWOOFING environment. It was working in an organics shop, something was just amiss and I discussed this with the family as I felt I couldn’t connect with what I was being asked to do. I didn’t feel too comfortable in my downtime, there wasn’t a good phone/internet signal and it was very, very cold. I do think the main reason was coming from fairly comfortable surroundings, with friends into a very isolated environment.

But this was OK, was good to go with gut instinct, so again I booked an AirBNB in Nelson giving myself a few days of ‘tourist time’. I had been feeling desperate to start painting for a few weeks as I had purchased everything I needed, including mess rags for oils, and I needed to get some ideas down, this was stressing me out. I have begun to realise that if I leave it too long without doing anything creative it disrupts the balance and frankly I can’t function very well at all. I seem to lose all foresight and can become very low, until I started travelling I didn’t realise how deeply this affected me. I think at times during my last week in Wellington, this imbalance was highlighted, as I was staying with somebody so devoted to his craft and staying in a city bursting with creativity was a reminder that I needed to put some time and work in.

P1070430.JPG

Shirley was the AirBNB host I stayed with, we got on really well, drank wine and discussed locals artists-many of which she shared contact details with me. Nelson, like Wellington, is rich full of creativity and has a big artist community working and selling from galleries. It’s a much smaller scale than Wellington but with a distinctive charm, it just ‘felt right’. One of the iconic art hubs was The World of Wearable Art Museum showcasing a world class collection of classic cars alongside incredible wearable works of art from all around the globe. It was fantastical, and by the time I entered the neon room I had felt I was starring in Fear & Loathing in Las Vegas, it was a real buzz for the senses. Not only were the costumes incredible but the choreographed performance piece was immense (I’m hoping to attend this year’s show in Wellington).

P1070444.JPG         P1070447Another must-see in the area is the Abel Tasman National Park located between Golden Bay and Tasman Bay at the north of the South Island, renowned for its golden beaches, sculptured granite cliffs, and its world-famous coast track. I had two free days before the next WWOOFING experience was pencilled in and I wanted to see as much of the park as I could. On the first day I took a scenic drive right through to Golden Bay, stopping at a beautiful hidden gem known as The Grove, with its labyrinth like paths through imposing rock walls.

P1070522In the area was Ngarua Cave, and as I love a good cave exploration this was a must see-plus scenes from the Hobbit were also shot on the surrounding landscape. A kind lady (her name escapes me) gave me access to the cave and we had a great chat about her love for Lord of The Rings, she was fascinated that I had worked at Hobbiton! She explained that her son was obsessed and collected all the miniatures- it was nice to meet a local New Zealander enthused about the stories, rather than the just tourists. The cave didn’t disappoint, it changed within each dramatic chamber and had a elegant cathedral like space, that people do actually get married in (I didn’t this time around..) P1070476.JPGFor the next day I arranged what is known as a water taxi taking me from Kaiteriteri beach in the Abel Tasman up to Awaroa. Now there are many tramping hikes you can do, from hours to days, but due to the time of year and lack of ‘camping’ equipment I owned, I decided to take the taxi then hike down to Medlands Beach. Along the way on the icy boat ride I saw the iconic split apple rock and many stunning golden beaches and seal pups. When I arrived at the starting point of the hike I felt as though I had been plonked on an island with no map and no one around (there really wasn’t….anyone) luckily it was pretty straight forward and a decent climb through forest, bridges, water (I really shouldn’t have worn skin tight jeans, they don’t roll up too well). I felt really alone, but in a good way, I found myself deeply comfortable and began to have lucid visions and hallucinations, all I can think of is that I had such clarity that the subconscious thoughts started to come through. It was strange but amazing……

P1070574.JPG

A purely natural high I reckon 🙂

I still have much more to say, but this post is getting a little chunky, standby for the next post on..Coffins, Paintings and Chickens in the next part of my journey…

DSC_0015_7.JPG

Soundtrack- Peter Gabriel – In Your Eyes, Ryan Francesconi – Parallel Flights