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There be gold in them there hills ◮…the Wild West & re-visiting friends

DSC_0780It made sense to travel back up the island through the rugged west coast. Renowned for its damp and lush green rainforest like landscapes it didn’t disappoint. I crossed the Haast pass in murky wet weather, stepping out to climb over some giant rocks and take in the energy of my new surroundings. Heading north along the coast line, I left the snow behind and began to see waterfalls and rockslides.

I took a nights rest in Hokitika, famous for its abundance of sacred greenstone and gold mines. I finally made the commitment of buying a beautifully carved jade fishhook, as I didn’t want the regret of not owning a piece of this unique green jewellery. The following beautiful sunny morning I craved a walk after so much driving, I found myself on a mysterious track through old gold mining tunnels, head lamp at the ready, I was far too curious to not enter. I came out in one piece :). Heading further north that same day (time was getting tight) I made what was to be one of my finalP1080468 stops on the south island. Punakaiki- a small community between Westport and Greymouth, home to amazing rock formations which were formed 30 million years ago from minute fragments of dead marine creatures and plants landed on the seabed about 2 km below the surface. Immense water pressure caused the fragments to solidify in hard and soft layers. Gradually seismic action lifted the limestone above the seabed. Mildly acidic rain, wind and seawater sculpted the bizarre shapes. Fierce water pressure pushes through the rocks and blow holes causing a chimney like effect, a real wow moment.P1080496Further on up the road there was a ‘cavern’, just like the ‘chasm’ in the previous blog, this word is far too interesting for me to not visit. Curiousity sparked, head torch at the ready (always) I made my way in. It was a dry and peaceful cave, a few areas to climb and crawl into, and a wonderful inky black haze surrounded me. I sat for a while and enjoyed the atmosphere. P1080514The hostel I’d booked into couldn’t check me in for a while, sadly for me it was right next to a pub overlooking the sea as the sun was setting. A cold pint of Waikato beer in hand, I reflected on the day, realising my southern trip was nearing an end, but what an excellent high I was on! I made my way back to Nelson, to catch up with Renee for a couple of goodbye drinks. One of the most rewarding things about travelling alongside the incredible sites you see are the amazing people you meet along the way. I feel so humbled to have friends I can visit all over New Zealand and create memories with. The ferry was very choppy back up to the north island, so much so it was turning into a Monty Python sketch with everybody making heaving noises due to sea sickness (nice image eh?). Arriving in Wellington that evening it felt a great comfort to see Steve again. He was putting me up/putting up with me in Mirimar for the week. He had a good friend Jason from South Africa staying too as they were both working on a big film together -I’m not going to tell you which one of course 😉 we had a fun week of chatting, drinking and playing computer games, when they weren’t working their arses off at Weta of course. Jason is a cool dude with a fro, very easy going, super talented and has recently worked on films such as Mad Max.

DSC_0677It was the time of year my great friend Dan from back home hosts his annual Gig In The Garden. It is a gathering of family, friends, great music, tasty grub, and being the amazing friend he is, he set up a live stream so I could enjoy the action as it happened, with interludes of people coming up to the webcam to talk to me, it really was the next best thing to being there. Another random meet up happened that week in Mirimar, with Dana, a drama teacher from the school I used to work at. He was over visiting his son Alex, who now lives in Auckland. Dana happened to be at the Weta Workshop with Alex- so being up the road I decided to tag along! It was fun to see Dana and he very much enjoyed meeting Steven and finding out about his crazy Weta lifestyle. On the final evening myself and Steven took a walk through a ambient pinky violet sunset to the Mirimar ‘cave’, it’s a bit of a secret, and home to a self-made bed structure and eerily a pair of sandals. Walking back through the sand he told me of his adventures back in South Africa with his daughter, it was poignant and inspiring, I’m really happy to know him.

P1080573I had received an email from a John Brebner through the WWOOFING site asking if I would like to help out and experience a residency at his gorgeous studio in Feilding (roughly a couple of hours north of Wellington). I tried to make the timing work so that I could visit John on my slow trip up north for my Earthskin Muriwai art residency starting in September (much more info on that in a later blog) I arrived at Homeprint, welcomed by a lovely hug and introduction to John and Allison’s quirky old home, complete with vintage printing presses, letterpress fonts, art gallery walls, historic library- an absolute art lovers dream. John and Allison have a lifetimes experience of printing and teaching art and it was a pleasure to help them out for the week. A particular highlight was cataloguing famous NZ artist Michael Smither’s fantastic screen prints- oh how I’d like to have taken a few of these home with me. I slept in the printing cottage, meaning that after lighting myself a comforting fire for the evening, I would crack on and print until the wee hours, mainly drypoint, I realised how much I’d missed the medium since my university days. IMG_20160818_185051I was enjoying the daily routine of helping John with the practical side of his business then continuing my artwork later in the day. I did however enjoy a visit from Hobbiton (it’s that word again) friend Hendrik, who had recently taken over a tavern in nearby Apiti. We’d not really formed much of a friendship at Hobbiton, but curiosity and regular contact afterwards happily inspired us to meet again. Another South African (!) with a gentle, charismatic presence, I showed him around the studio, the pieces I was working on, and had a coffee before planning to meet at his pub a few days later.

Moving on up to Apiti up to Hendrik’s gaff, the scenery begins to change, the rolling green hills pass me by and I can see the snowy peak of Ruapehu in the distance. To be honest I was a bit anxious about spending the day with somebody I barely knew, I can get a little shy, but it all adds to the excitement. I needn’t have worried -we had surplus natural highs in store. To settle in we took a walk through a nearby forest, I never tire of its wonderful charm. I love the glinting sunlight and the mysterious gloom, we shared a smoke and talked about family. Later in the day we drove out to a somewhat secret glow worm cave, which in the mellow darkness of the early evening was incredible. IMG_20160829_205321We walked through mazes of shallow water guided further in by the lights. We took a seat on a dry rock and could see both the stars of the night sky and the glow worms surrounding us. We made our way back to the tavern and continued to talk, drink and smoke for hours and hours. It was sad to part the next morning, driving up towards Rotorua with a car full of tunes recommended by Hendrik, and a day of great memories, I was in a happy place. The next few days were about revisiting friends on my way back up to Auckland. I found a great hostel in Rotorua with a collection of fun travellers, amazingly all into great music, think Pink Floyd, Led Zep, Doors, so in the midst of rather uninspiring weather we hung out, drank and played games for a few days, while I took time out to prepare and research for the residency. Matamata was next, where I was really pleased to catch up with Luke from Southampton who has been there working since I left in May. We had a pint and lunch in Megan’s parents pub in Te Poi (Megan ex. Hobbiton) and wandered up the Kaimai range for a Kauri tree walk. It was more of a very deep river walk! we had fun negotiating these, getting wet underwear and laughing lots. 14102292_10154070565749737_1969560709872382206_nA lovely day was rounded off by a drink with Megan and Stephanie in the Redoubt (where else) and then back to the holiday park with Luke to sit in the hot pools in darkness staring and the stars listening to great tunes. A beach day with Linda at Mount Maungani was next on the ‘great reunion tour’, on the most summery of days we had a great chat and spent time on the beach. Just a few more days until I needed to be up at Muriwai Beach, so on the recommendation from Linda I planned a few sunny chilled days on the Coromandel, and chose a location I hadn’t yet visited in Tairua. Well it was so beautiful that I spent 3 nights there, trekking, paddling and enjoying the view.DSC_0848

There were a couple of interesting guys at the hostel one of which gave me a list of ‘classical music I have to listen to’ (he also had the best beard ever) and the other (we didn’t do the name exchange) was studying geology in the area and suggested I visit Hamilton Gardens on my way back up. Sat in the sunniest café garden in Hamilton I awaited a lunch date with Matt (Christchurch, Kent) and this time around he was much healthier! I had a pretty flowery salad and we reminisced on funny festival experiences together. He really is a great friend, we have had many good memories. After this reasonably quick lunch I was spending my last night before the residency in the smallest hostel ever (thank god it was the last I thought) and escaped in the evening to share a lush dinner and drink with Hobbiton chum Jessica.  _20160831_194456I was soon realising that this may well be the last time I see these great friends which is bittersweet, but I’m never one to waste time on regrets, you just have to go for it 🙂

Soundtrack: Jenny Lee – Boom Boom, Lamb – Lusty, REM – Nightswimming, Led Zeppelin – Going To California, Leftfield – Leftism

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art, art studio, carly mann, Uncategorized

Redwood ➸ Harwood ↞The Lost Woods

P1070808Leaving behind friends and a memorable experience at Willow Creek Farm I was greatly anticipating getting stuck into an art project. A lovely roast lamb cooked by farm co-worker/new friend Annie made for a great evening’s grub and company before heading to Motueka to meet Barbara. Myself and Barbara had exchanged many emails regarding an exhibition she had ideas for one gallery or maybe more…

DSC_0272Barbara was a kind soul, deeply interested in philosophy and art- particularly important shifts in art movements pre 20th century. I arrived after a scenic bridge drive over to the other side of Motueka where I was welcomed into Redwood Cottage. This was to be my home for the next week, and how perfect this turned out to be. I felt instantly comfortable and in a great mind-set to discuss the artworks Barbara wanted me to create. We had interesting discussions about our ideas and where to begin, I was very much in a position of planning, curating, and offering my advice and experience. Barbara had many intriguing books particularly focussed around Paleolithic and Neolithic art- right up my street. The Lascaux cave paintings situated in France seemed like a fitting starting point given the chronological date and my deep interest in caves and sacred stone structures. The very next day I began work armed with all the materials I could possibly need, listening to The Pentangle, Neil Young and Leonard Cohen to set the tone.

Work flowed organically. I played with texture, different scales, a limited colour palette, as well as metallics to produce a coherent set that I believe evoke the feel of the caves and invite the viewer to experience a unique insight. I was on a creative buzz all week, enjoying down time chatting to friendly Japanese and German wwoofers staying in Barbara’s house, and friends back home over a gin or 3 in the cottage that felt so like home.

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Renee was staying in nearby Nelson and joined me for my last night, drinking gin (a theme?) and playing board games- we had previously enjoyed the Light Nelson event, which was a free event creatively lighting up the city. It was pretty impressive  (what I can remember of it!) But I wanted one last trek up Abel Tasman way, and managed to twist Renee’s arm into joining me. This place was called Harwoods Hole, at 176 metres deep it is the known as the ‘biggest vertical shaft’ in New Zealand (tee hee) The walk to it was also used for filming scenes of ‘Chetwood Forest’ in Lord of the Rings.

P1070820We walked, Renee with her melodica in hand (we found it at the cottage) and decided to play Zelda tunes as we walked around (we’re too cool) when approaching the semi circle of immensely high rock formations we could feel this was a special place, egging each other on to get nearer the edge and peer down, I’ve never seen anything quite like it. Awesome, enigmatic, and bloody scary all at the same time. A look out point on the way down proved to be a justified detour, that is until I fell onto very sharp angular rocks, giving myself a good few good cuts and bruises. It’s moments like this that it’s important to have a mate around- I was glad to have Ren there as I concerned my knee had given up the ghost.

P1070857Time to depart through the famously scenic Queen Charlotte Track, gradually heading south towards Kaikoura, situated on the east coast. Kaikoura is predominantly known for its whale and seal watching and was a beautiful first glimpse of those famous snow capped mountains. I stopped off at the Ohau Stream Walk to watch baby seals swimming playfully, it’s also where I happened to bump into Danny- the super cool bus driver from Hobbiton , well met with a hug and quick catchup, this lifted my spirits even more. P1070904After a night in Kaikoura it was time to swing on down to Christchurch. Christchurch was a place I certainly wanted to at least pass through whilst in New Zealand. It is another large city, but this one experienced a devastating earthquake, a 6.3 on the richter scale in fact, killing many and destroying the surroundings and leaving the city unrecognisable. When I arrived it was a grey day and I was moved by the mess of it all. People I’d met on my journey so far had spoken about the optimisim and creative regeneration emerging through shipping containers, and impressive ‘cardboard cathedral’ and the like- sadly, it certainly had a long way to go in my opinion. As a diversion from isolating feelings of walking around a now soul-less city, it was to be a sociable few days ahead.

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I sat myself in a nearby Mexican restaurant sipping a tasty margarita, anticipating the arrival of Californian Steve. Steve purchased one of my first ever glass works I created, inspired by the band Dead Can Dance. We had been in contact since then, and the dates worked so that we could meet up on his last night in New Zealand. 13710045_10153970064979737_3232642962097901750_nWe greeted with a hug and it felt instantly comfortable with flowing conversation including his incredible life stories managing bands, running radio stations, hanging out with famous faces, his INCREDIBLE music collection oh, and he’s an award-winning racquetball extraordinaire. We spoke for hours over a tasty Asian meal, I left feeling glad we had the chance to meet.

The next day was time to meet a friend from back home, Matt, who has just recently secured permanent residency in New Zealand. We have been friends for many years, usually frequenting at the Beautiful Days festival or numerous Levellers gigs. Although he wasn’t feeling 100% when we met (more like 40% in fact) he was sweet conversation and it felt like all was well. 13690875_10153974173174737_7142613928823160983_n

The following day was The Cure day! I flew myself (I’ve grown wings) up to Auckland to meet free-spirited Linda (Hobbiton bus driver) as we had previously bonded over a love of great music and stayed in regular contact since my departure. To say I was excited to see The Cure would be an understatement. I have loved them and been inspired by Robert Smith since I was about 12. The fun, quirky, gothy, playful goodness of the band is so unique, and 40 years later they haven’t ‘sold out’, they are still attracting fans of all ages, and quite frankly write bloody good songs and perform them exceptionally well. Altogether an emotionally exilerating 3.5hr gig that confirmed my love for the band- the first time I’d seen them myself and my partner at the time cried afterwards- it was overwhelming 🙂 Linda and I sunk a few, rocked out with fellow fans, and just had a bloody good time.

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A hungover Carly, a cancelled flight, and 2 days of waiting at the airport failed to take off the shine…

Soundtrack: The Cure – How Beautiful You Are, The Doors – The Crystal Ship

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The Wide Window

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It was time to get back to the original plan of heading south. After a vibrant 2 months spent in Hobbiton I was ready to start travelling to explore more of this amazing country. It is quite the drive down to Wellington so the pit stop along the way would be Mount Ruapehu, to explore some caves and a good chance to catch up with Steven who I’d met a few months prior, on my last visit to Wellington. We met at Skotel Alpine resort (think of The Shining) in some..curious weather, it was incredibly overcast and windy, enough to close off the nearby Tongariro Alpine Crossing for the weekend. It was exciting anticipating seeing Steven again as we’d only met for 4 hours previously but had managed to stay in touch despite life going on. It wasn’t long before the first bottle of wine was opened and we had chance to get used to each others company in a small wooden room. The ‘guest room’ had a wide selection of…VHS tapes, complete with annoying shaky lines and reluctance to play, we managed to dig out Jason and the Argonauts, I thought this may be fitting given Steven’s job role at Weta Workshop-we both decided it still looked pretty good for its age. Talking of age, the room also housed the saddest looking coin operated funfair game with around 10 out of date chocolate bars ready to be won, Wahooo!

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The Okupatu caves situated in the Tongariro Forest were our main destination for the weekend. We took some crazy ‘roads’ until we finally made it to the entrance (thankfully Steve had a 4×4, my automatic would have had a hissy fit). The entrances seemed pretty log-jammed at first but with a bit of careful manoeuvring thankfully we were able to enter. It was quite a network and we didn’t even discover all of it. It was rather beautiful, we had a glow worm display just for us. Steve was very mindful to create markers along the way so as not to get lost, I couldn’t help thinking of the Father Ted episode with the wool from Dougal’s jumper ‘guiding’ them. P1070201

We continued our journey to Mount Ruapehu as the sun began to set and cast beautiful long shadows across the unusually piled rocks. The short walk began at the bottom of the Centennial Chairlift and then on up to Meads Wall. This was one of the Lord of the Rings filming locations for around 5 weeks for a few different scenes. Think steep sheer cliffs, impressive views, and time to sit on a rock and feel small and insignificant in the landscape.

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The Tangiwai disaster on 24 December 1953 happened when the Whangaehu River bridge collapsed beneath a Wellington to Auckland express passenger train at Tangiwai, in the central North Island of New Zealand. The locomotive and first six carriages derailed into the river, killing 151 people. The disaster remains New Zealand’s worst rail accident. It was at this memorial we decided to part ways (on a nice cheery note!) However, it was only to be for one night…

To break up the 6 hour drive down to Wellington I decided to stop over in Featherston and stayed with a kind man who very much enjoyed talking about the Hobbit and listening to my tales of Hobbiton (that made me sound like I lived there didn’t it?). The following day I took the coast road all the way down to Cape Palliser lighthouse . The road to Cape Palliser is dramatically scenic. P1070272 This area of New Zealand has a rich history of early Maori occupation and heritage sites are part of the fascinating landscape. For the final part of the journey, the road clings to the edge of the coast, providing unstoppable views of Palliser Bay. I climbed the lighthouse and enjoyed the sun and wind on my face as I sat there with not a person (or seal for that matter) in sight.

Taking the state highway through busy Wellington across to Miramar I arrived at Steve’s small and quirky home later that day, nestled in bush up a hill- the view from the deck was inspiring. I started to gain a better appreciation of just how many films and incredible creations he has made along the way, it really is quite positively intimidating and thoroughly fascinating. Although work was to swallow him up for the week, it was my time to settle and have a few days of exploring –the places I didn’t get to see the first time around. One of these was Zealandia, a protected natural area in Wellington, a real sanctuary full of incredible birds that I enjoyed spending the day hanging out with.

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One weekday evening Steve took us around some creepy WWII army bunkers, and took great pleasure in creeping me out (it was a fun week of usual mocking of my height and accents- his was a South African/Kiwi/Irish hybrid). We also enjoyed PS4 Star Wars action, maybe more than we should’ve..

Wellington was also home to some other great friends to meet up with. One night I spent with Dana (Auckland/Raglan chum) and Lauren (Auckland/Welly chum). We drank some tasty cocktails in an interesting bar named Motel in Courtney Place while Dana told us her best Tinder experiences ever. The following evening, along with Steve this time, we headed out to Goldings with it’s Sci-Fi colourful décor to meet a good friend of my brother’s wife, Dan. What a lovely guy! We chatted, drank and ate ‘the best pizza in New Zealand’. DSC_0053 I was really beginning to love spending time in Wellington, everything was buzzing and so creative and I felt a great connection with Steve, much more so than I anticipated.

Ultimately, it’s all very fleeting, these amazing moments are there to be enjoyed and then they’re gone. It’s a strange mind-set when everything is so temporary, but it does make me appreciate even the smallest moments. I felt quite emotional discussing my love of music discussing Dead Can Dance, Lisa Gerrard, Kate Bush and I hope some of my passion for music has rubbed off. Our response to certain kinds of noise is something so profound in us that we can’t switch it off. I have found myself in a strange headspace unable to distinguish quite what it is I am doing here, heavy I know, but true. Most of the time I am riding the waves, but I do touch down every so often and feel a little lost, I am trying to get used to this and embrace it as part of the process of growth.

After locking ourselves out on the coldest and windiest night of the week we finally got inside (thanks weary locksmith!) ready to enjoy the weekend together. The Putangirua Pinnacles or The Paths of the Dead to the Lord of the Rings fans out there was our next location. A gentle walk led us to the viewing platform of this strangely wonderful rock formation. Our walk following the river out led us to an incredible find. Perched on the edge overlooking the sea, a house had lost itself to the cliff. Like a scene from Lemony Snickets- A Series of Unfortunate Events, myself and Steve were excited to go and explore! (Ok so he was braver/crazier than me) it really did mess with my senses, seeing that state of undoing holding on by its last threads. Exploring the abandoned was soon becoming a theme …and it’s intriguing and addictive.

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On our last day we had a super breakfast, visited a terrible craft fair, and took a walk around some impressive graffiti laden bunkers-that made for some great photographs. I have an excellent signed Gandalf miniature and Neanderthal skull for keepsakes and a reminder of a truly great week with an gifted artist.

 

After a change of heart I have decided to catch the ferry to the south island tomorrow, I was tempted to explore a few niggling desires pulling me back north but no, it’s time to go now. See you on the other side…

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Soundtrack: R.E.M.- What If We Give It Away, Canned Heat- On The Road Again, Bulgarian State Choir – Mir Stanke Le

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Well Hello New Zealand – Auckland & Raglan

Thailand has been great – excellent in fact, but it was time to move on to the reason for me leaving my friends and family behind, New Zealand. I found myself watching Flight of the Conchords on the plane from Sydney, excitement ever growing.

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My first thought when landing into Auckland airport is the distinct lack of people around. I thought it may be the change of climate that hit me, but it was unusually humid in Auckland, pretty uncomfortable in fact. I took the most expensive taxi ride ever (I’m not exaggerating after the cheapness of Thailand either) to Haka Lodge. It was a nice new clean hostel although with a severe lack of air. It was situated in a quieter part of the city, but there was a karaoke bar just opposite, offering the worst talent in NZ. I realised that I would need a few days to get over the jet lag, and the rendition of My Way, and needed to sort out mundane things such as a bank account and tax code, enabling me to get paid for work in NZ. I also decided in Thailand that I’d buy a car for NZ (the best way to get to see everything I wanted) and also find a job oh and sort accommodation. It was all pretty overwhelming, and a sweaty hostel room with 6 others wasn’t the best environment for clear thinking.

So trying to sort out a bank account and tax number to enable me to work was pretty much a massive ballache. It’s really easy to gain a working visa, but they’re reluctant to give you a bank account without a permanent address-this adds to further complications with other things too. I took a wander around Ponsonby, which is full of lovely bars and stunning local art shops, the type I’d happily purchase just about everything.  DSC_0793The Art Gallery in Auckland felt very comfortable for me, I spent a lot of time there…and yes I asked about vacancies 🙂 I wasn’t just dawdling around, honest, I was desperately trying to plan accommodation, work, but mainly at this stage I was using the NZ equivalent of Ebay to find myself a car.

A Mazda Familia in (not sexy) Grey is my new ride. After looking at a few, or rather the owners driving the cars for me to see 😉 this one stood out as being well looked after – a bit of independence, finally! I could now begin to plan escaping the expensive, soul less, but perfectly nice Auckland city centre. I met a fun girl called Dana from California, we hung out, ate some ridiculously tasty grub, chatted about bands we love, and began to plan a trip to Raglan.

Raglan was unknown me, and Dana began to explain that this little place held one of the best ‘left hand point break’ in the world…yeah I didn’t know what she meant either. The time had arrived to leave Auckland in my new wheels, around a 2 hour trip, tunes playing loud, excited about our 3 night stay at Solscape.

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Solscape was up a very steep hill, overlooking the west coast, and the view was INCREDIBLE. I spent ages just staring at it in disbelief. The place was created as a surf and yoga retreat, with the accommodation created from old train carriages, not just a gimmick, these things really made sense as affordable accommodation. DSC_0836.JPGEveryone there seemed to have the same ideals, and were really friendly. We spent a good amount of time drinking and listening to each others stories of life and travel.

I signed up for a 3 hour surf session, as well as meditation and yoga. I really wanted to get as much out of this place as I could. Meditation included chanting, blessings, counting beads and the guy played his organ while singing (don’t be rude now..) I don’t know how I felt about it as a lifestyle choice, but certainly enjoyed it more when he was playing hypnotising music. DSC_0863Yoga the following day held no big surprises, it was a long session at 90 minutes but it felt really beneficial and I needed to get my body back into the practise.

The surf session started well – there was 4 of us, all absolute beginners, myself and 3 young German girls. Our leader, Andrew, was beautiful and funny (most surfers seem to be) he actually came from the Isle Of Wight! So we joked about swimming to Fawley Refinery and the fact we both went to art school. We were first off taught the way of the wave on a towel on the grass, then wetsuits on, a small drive to the beachP1050859.JPG and we were ready to hit them waves! (or at least the white foamy stuff). I’d just like to point out that I’m a bit rubbish at swimming, and my experience of the sea was a freezing cold pebbly beach in the UK and a bit of body boarding in Biarritz when I was about 10.

I stood up! More than once! What a great feeling, your mind clears, and it’s so unlike anything I’ve ever done before. It didn’t take me long to feel exhausted, the muscles I’d awoken in yoga were starting to get pretty lazy by the end of it all. Another experience on the checklist done, what a blast!

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Leaving Raglan with a positive re-charged attitude, and on to Rotorua to spend a week with a family on an organic farm…WWOOFING…

Soundtrack: Pearl Jam – Big Wave, PJ Harvey – Good Fortune